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Suspension Done Right – Suzuki Jimny Setup Guide

By October 13, 2025No Comments
Jimny Suspension Set Up

Photo credit: @unarchived_images

The Suzuki Jimny’s suspension is simple — solid axles, coils, panhards — but when you start lifting it, things get complicated fast.
Between geometry changes, added weight, and the infamous “Jimny wobble,” it’s easy to make it drive worse than stock if you don’t set it up properly.After a year of experimenting with different lifts, I’ve finally settled on a setup that
drives beautifully on-road and dominates off-road, even on 33s. 

1. Current Suspension Setup

Current Suspension Components
Component Details
Lift Height 75mm
Coils Des Sol EV1 Heavy-Duty (non-progressive)
Shocks Des Sol EV1 matched dampers
Radius Arms Corrected front arms
Rear Arms Stock (no issues so far)
Panhard Rods Heavy-duty adjustable replacements
Steering Damper Upgraded heavy-duty
Tyres 33×12.5R15 on 7J steel rims (moving to 8J beadlocks soon)

 

The Des Sol coils were chosen not for comfort, but because they handle the vehicle’s weight — roof rack, RTT, long-range tank, turbo kit, and drawers. Progressive coils sagged under load, so these heavy-duty linear coils were the only real option.

 


2. Steering Wobble – The Mystery Fix

Like most lifted Jimnys, mine developed a steering wobble. We went through everything:

  • Tyre balancing
  • Kingpin bearings
  • Wheel alignment
  • Steering damper

Nothing fixed it.

Turns out, the radius arm angle was wrong for the lift height. When the old suspension sagged, it pushed the axle forward slightly, changing the castor and steering geometry.

After switching to corrected front radius arms, the wobble disappeared completely. We tested it after dropping from a 100mm to 75mm lift, and the issue stayed gone.

Sometimes the cheapest fix is geometry, not gadgets.

 


3. Geometry & Castor Correction

The front radius arms added roughly 3° of castor, restoring stability and self-centering. The rear geometry still works fine on stock arms, though adjustable ones may eventually help fine-tune axle centering with the new panhards.

Correct castor = no wobble, better high-speed tracking, and tighter corner control.

 


4. Replacing Bushings & Panhard Rods

When we were running the 100mm lift, all the OEM bushings tore — especially without proper castor correction.
Swapping to new bushes throughout (front, rear, panhards) and
adjustable heavy-duty rods made the whole system tighter and quieter.

The new panhards also keep the axles centred under articulation, which helped eliminate bump steer and side wander.

 


5. Driving Impressions

The 75mm lift keeps the centre of gravity low enough for confidence on twisty mountain passes but offers huge flex off-road. On-road, it tracks straight with minimal steering input, even with 33s. Off-road, articulation is great, and the heavy-duty coils handle rough corrugations with ease — no wallowing or bottoming out.

 


6. Future Plans

Next upgrade: 8J beadlocks for better 33 fitment and a bit more tyre stability.
Also planning to test progressive rear coils once the weight balance is finalised (RTT + drawer + dog setup adds up).

 


Conclusion – Suspension is Geometry, Not Guesswork

Throwing parts at a wobble rarely works. Suspension setup is about alignment, correction, and balance, not just lift height.
The Des Sol EV1 setup, corrected radius arms, and solid geometry gave me the best-driving Jimny I’ve had yet — proof that even on 33s, you can have a stable, road-friendly, and trail-ready build.

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